The Following Was Featured in The Troy Record on 12/27/07

 

A Satisfying Experience

Vin Santo Tapas and Wine Bar

By Bob Goepfert, The Record

LATHAM — During the holidays, it’s tough to limit your food intake, even when you go to a restaurant that specializes in small portions. We went midweek for a light meal at Vin Santo, a Tapas and Wine Bar restaurant located in Latham Farms, intending to have a light meal. We ended up with a satisfying, but very full meal.

Tapas means top in Spanish and the food style originated from the custom of outdoor diners placing a small plate of food on the top of a beverage to keep the flies away. In that tradition, Tapas restaurants specialize in small portion dinners and appetizers.

We recently ate with friends at a Tapas restaurant up north and the experience was disheartening. We all left hungry and upset at the high prices asked for tiny servings of uninspired food. I noticed that last month, Vin Santo changed its menu after being open for only about a year. It could suggest they might once have had similar complaints.

Not anymore. Our meal was excellent and although our total bill was in the $80 range, it should be thought of as two $40 meals. After we finished with our appetizers, Long Term looked at me and said, "We’ve got more food coming and I’m no longer hungry." We were in that satisfied zone where a couple of fanciful items pleased the palate while a couple of sips of wine comforted the psyche.

I love to order Calamari for an appetizer. After having it as a steak at Vin Santo, I don’t know if I can go back to the breaded version. Our small Calamari Steak ($8) covered with baby arugula salad and parsley sauce and grilled in garlic sauce was delicious and light. It sounds like an odd combination, but it was a perfect complement to our pizza. Don’t sneer. There are six versions of gourmet pizzato to choose from, plus a specialty of the day pizza. All cost $12.

Choosing between Moroccan Lamb, Bolognese, Mushroom and Camembert and Duck Sausage was the toughest decision we made since picking a gift for Aunt Matilda. We chose Duck Sausage, which includes braised onions, applesauce, dried cherries, blue cheese and arugula and a basil pesto topping. I’m usually a cheese pizza guy who deplores tampering. I loved this pizza, which was an ideal size for two people.

Our shared love of the pizza was nothing compared to my satisfaction with the 6-oz. Filet Mignon ($19) served over a bed of mashed potatoes and topped with creamed spinach infused with bleu cheese. The piece of tender beef was delivered to the table medium rare as ordered and was a treasure. It alone would have made for a superior dining experience.

Long Term called her Slow Braised Ropa Vieja ($12) an upscale version of pulled beef. It seems to me, beef braised in red wine and beer covers all the basic food groups, but she was more impressed with the subtle touches of sofrito, capers, olives and steamed Basmati rice all touched by a hit of garlic oil that added spice without overpowering the dish.

Our light dinners alone would have been enough food for a satisfying meal. And, by the way, Vin Santo does offer full-plated entrees. But, because of our "first meal," we had to take half the portions home. We couldn’t even look at the dessert menu.

The decor of Vin Santo is accented with an elegant and attractive copper tone. There are high tables in the bar area and a dining area to the side that can be sectioned off. There is also a long bar in another section that is used for dining. The service we were given by Marty was impeccable. I love touches like finding the napkin refolded when you return to the table. As for replacing the silverware after each course, it’s more than nice — it should be mandatory.

We had a 6-oz. glass of Cortijo Roija (2006) from Spain and a 2005 Grayson Chardonnay from California. Each was an excellent wine for the price. Two cups of coffee ($3 each) to close the meal were nearly as good.

Our food bill was only $57, wine added another $12, which brought the total to $69 before tax and tip. I think of it as one $29 meal and another for $40. Either is good deal.