The Following Was Featured in The Times Union 11/26/06

By WILLIAM M. DOWD, Associate editor
First published: Sunday, November 26, 2006

Tapas, like so many things in the culinary world, has its own special mystique.

It emerged from the polyglot culture of Spain, where food and drink has been shaped by indigenous Basques and Catalans and such conquerors as Romans and Moors.

In recent years, the art of tapas has spread well beyond Spanish borders, particularly suited to the cultural melting pot that is the United States.

In Spain, home cooks and restaurateurs alike had a practice of putting a tapas -- a cover -- over a dish to keep insects away. It didn't take long for someone to think of putting a nibble atop the tapas plate -- olives, nuts, a bit of fruit or fish, and the habit grew.

As always, the Capital Region is late to embrace a food trend, with the idea of tapas only tepidly tried. But anyone who knows Craig Allen knows he likes to do things in a big way, and his new Vin Santo Tapas & Wine Bar is screaming tapas at an audience that is quickly and fervently embracing it.

Barely 100 days into his new restaurant's existence in the Latham Farms shopping complex, it is difficult to score a table without a reservation. As a result, Allen, who owns the nearby All Star Wine & Spirits store, already is looking to expand into adjacent space.

Tapas at Vin Santo varies from tiny servings that are, indeed, just a sample or a snack to small plate entrees, raw bar items, specialty pizzas and full-fledged lunch offerings.

Constant Companion and I visited Monday evening to sample the possibilities. I won't wait to give you the bottom line: Vin Santo is an excellent, imaginative addition to the local dining scene, missing the four-star rating only because it still is a work in progress.

The team of Allen, partner and executive chef Chris Sisinni (ex-Justin's), general manager/wine director John W. Wilson and wine buyer Ralph Bonavist has put together a spot where the pace is conducive to enjoyment, the staff is well schooled in the intricacies of the kitchen, and the wine list offers numerous half-bottle and by-the-glass (six-ounce pour) possibilities.

The mood is set by copper-topped tables, comfortable burled wood chairs, quality glassware, a wall-length maritime mural in keeping with the Mediterranean design -- and Allen is proudly showing off sketches for more theatrical appointments.

We began with fresh-baked focaccia, dipped into olive oil flecked with red pepper, and glasses of Saletein Malbec 2003, a rich, bold Argentine red. Next came a quartet of tapas plates: little meatballs simmered in a curried tomato ragu; a sweet, tender crab cake accompanied by slices of pickled green tomatoes and drizzled with smoked paprika and beet oils, a symphony of contrasting tastes; a pair of creamy, briny Jack Blake oysters from Martha's Vineyard, perfectly paired with an acidic fruit salsa; and a two-cheese plate (selected from four possibilities) -- a mild Spanish Manchego sheep's milk cheese from the region that spawned the Don Quixote tale, and a French St. Nectaire cow's milk cheese that is about 45 percent fat -- accompanied by toast and a nice gewurtztraminer grape marmalade.

Along with glasses of a cleansing prosecco, we shared a trio of small plates -- a splendid ahi tuna tartare of finely diced, sushi grade fish, pickled ginger, ponzu, scallions and Granny Smith apples with an avocado wasabi sauce; an herbed, fried eggplant slice topped with a mound of shredded Manchego and sun-dried tomato salsa, and a grilled petit filet mignon with mashed potatoes, portobello fries and onion jam. Curiously, the beef dish was the one weak link in our extensive tasting. Acceptable, but not on the same level of wit and execution.

Desserts were a traditional Spanish concoction of rich Vahlrona chocolate, olive oil and sea salt spread on toast, and a fine pear/brown butter tart served with a rum raisin anglaise sauce.

Our bill, before tip, for this excellent repast: a very reasonable $126.40.

William M. Dowd can be reached at 454-5411 or wdowd@timesunion.com.